Race report 3
DOI INTHANON NATIONAL PARK - Thailand - 55 km, 3140M+, PAGODA 50.
A few words about the starting location of this race: Doi Inthanon National Park, known as the "Roof of Thailand." This national park is situated in the Thanon Thong Chai Range in Chom Thong District, Chiang Mai Province, in northern Thailand. It encompasses Doi Inthanon, the highest mountain in the country. The park is located approximately 60 kilometers (37 miles) from Chiang Mai.
THE MAGIC OF THE START – December 10, 2022, 6:00 a.m.
Thanks to my running manager—my dear husband—I stayed at the Parinda Garden Resort in Chiang Mai. The drive to the starting and finishing point in Doi Inthanon National Park, as we checked the day before, took about 45 minutes.
The night before, and even the day leading up to the race, were incredibly challenging. As is often the case before a race, my digestive system decided to go on strike. Instead of loading up on carbs, I was searching pharmacies for activated charcoal—not the "carbo-loading" kind, but the "stop things moving" kind 😊. I could barely eat anything, and I had to rely on sheer willpower to find the strength for the race.
The joy of starting was immense, especially since I wanted to experience a race in Asia surrounded by the scents and scenery of Thailand. The effort and challenge were even greater because, as is typical for runners, I was dealing with a pretty significant injury—a frozen shoulder.
But honestly, having already run with unhealthy ankles, knees, and even a less-than-reliable head, running without a functioning shoulder didn't seem like that big of a deal. 😊
A bit past 3 a.m., we woke up like good little racers—on time and ready to go. The transfer we had booked for 4 a.m. was essential, as the start was located over 1,200 meters above sea level, and we needed to climb up there with enough time to prepare. I was incredibly pleased with myself—packed, prepared, without carbo-loading but with a warm heart full of excitement.
Yet something was gnawing at me. Half-asleep in the car, I lay there for a long time, going over and over in my mind whether I had packed everything. I felt calm, slightly powerless, and then—BAM! There it was! I knew it! I'd messed something up! That pounding heartbeat, that moment of helplessness, that crushing despair! Oh no!
Three-quarters of the way up, nearly at the top, I was gripped by a sudden and terrifying realization. You know that feeling when you're on your way to a beach vacation, ready to relax, and you realize you forgot to pack your favorite swimsuit—the one that makes you feel amazing?
I had left my race bib back in the hotel room! AAAAAAAAAA! 😱
Panic reached its peak. The driver said there was no way to turn around on the winding road and that going back was impossible. A momentary sense of helplessness took over my body. However, after some "polite" persuasion, we managed to find a spot to turn around. I was mentally driving the car myself—steering, braking, and urging it forward with sheer willpower.
And then, suddenly, I snapped awake. We arrived back at the hotel, and there it was—my race bib, calmly lying on the bed, waiting for me. The whole operation moved at breakneck speed, and before I knew it, we were back on the winding road heading toward the starting gate.
Instead of arriving 45 minutes early as planned, we reached the start about 8 minutes before the race began. There was no time for a porta-potty visit or lining up properly at the starting gate. So, I squeezed myself semi-politely into the starting lineup about 50 meters away from the beautiful starting arch.
Now, the emotions truly hit their peak. 😱🎉
Look at this photo with the description. That START—a dream! Beautiful music, magical lights, and that starting arch… A spatial labyrinth of thick bamboo beams arranged into an ornate wall, illuminated by flashing colored spotlights, with wisps of fog drifting through the structure. Tradition blended with modern lights and the cultural music of Thailand.
This mix of sensory experiences—sights and sounds—honestly helped me close the chapter on the chaotic events of the past two hours, opening the door to this extraordinary, magical place.
In this setting, we counted down to zero and started the race. We ran joyfully, hop-sa-sa… for 800 meters 😊. And then… STOP.
If I remember correctly, there were a few thousand participants in this race. On my distance alone, there were 1,541 runners! You have to admit—that's quite a crowd. However, it seems the organizers hadn't anticipated that such a large number of people could cause bottlenecks and queues on the inclines, which quickly became a reality.
After just 800 meters, we were stopped by a muddy mess—a churned-up mix of dirt that had turned into a full-blown mudslide. The only solution was to wade ankle-deep into the muck to get onto the narrow uphill path. This first section of the trail was slow, painfully slow, with wait times of several minutes in some spots as the runners tried to spread out.
Seeing an average pace of about 18 minutes per kilometer on my watch, the thought of a DNF started to creep into my mind. At this pace, I wouldn't finish the race. And I wasn't the only one with a grim expression.
That said, my body seemed happy with the slower pace, as there was no immediate need for a natural toilet stop 😊. The surroundings and natural beauty of the area were stunning, though, so I decided to let go of my frustration and simply embrace the moment. Sticking to the runner's rhythm of right, left, right, left, I moved forward regardless of the pace.
CHECKPOINT 1 – A1 Mae La Noi – Beauty and Harmony.
The journey to the first checkpoint—about 14 km from the start—was a tough time trial.
However, the surrounding natural beauty made it worth taking the time to reach this point in peace. Let me share a few details about the first checkpoint, located in Mae La Noi. As I trudged along slowly through this area, I couldn't help but stop for a few photos. Here, I encountered a sense of harmony and immense tranquility in the surrounding landscape. Here's a little more about this picturesque location!
Mae La Noi—a village nestled in the cradle of majestic mountains—emerges as a small but captivating district, offering a unique and enchanting experience. In Mae La Noi, one can peek into the lives of local villagers, where traditions coexist harmoniously with the surrounding environment. A short journey from the Mae La Noi Royal Project leads to the aromatic realms of Arabica coffee plantations. These coffee farms not only produce beans of exceptional flavor but also hold GAP certification from the respected Department of Agriculture. The fruits of this labor grace the Royal Project and even make their way into Starbucks cups. In addition to the visual feast offered by the landscape (and yes, it truly looked magical), a local café invites visitors to savor a cup of aromatic brew. —Description sourced from Mae Hong Son Holidays.
P.S. There was neither time nor stomach capacity for coffee. 😊
CHECKPOINT 2 – A2 Mae Uam Water Resource – Thai Pines.
Leaving this checkpoint, we had only 9 kilometers to the next station, A2 - Mae Uam Water Resource. It was a calm section without much stress, running through a Thai pine forest. They were pines, sure—like the ones I see outside my window in the Puszcza Zielonka back in Poland—but at the same time, they weren't the same. The air was different, the ground was different—soft red soil, abundant ferns, moss, and a variety of flora and fauna.
This was a brief stop, but it was here we learned that due to the chaotic start, the organizers had decided to extend the time limit by an hour! In my short 10 years of running, this was the first time I had participated in an event—especially one of global scale and prestige—where the race's time limit was changed mid-race. Some runners found out at this second checkpoint, while others only learned about it at the third.
I know many runners had already dropped out at the first checkpoint, believing they had missed the cutoff. As I mentioned earlier, seeing an average of 18 minutes per kilometer in the first 5 km gave me mixed feelings. But as experience has taught me, it's best not to panic in situations like these. Instead, accept the moment for what it is and keep moving forward, slowly but steadily.
That philosophy served me well here. I'm grateful for my ability to stay calm and for being patient with myself, my surroundings, and the circumstances I was given.
CHECKPOINT 3 – A3 - Mae Chaem Guard Unit – The Climb to the Majestic Pagodas.
Reaching this checkpoint came at the cost of further dehydration. My average pace had stabilized to a rather decent 12 min/km, which filled me with joy. The terrain was genuinely soft, so it wasn't overly challenging to handle. However, my frozen shoulder continued to be a problem, making the "Tarzaning" I usually enjoy nearly impossible. The pain brought my playful swings to an unceremonious halt. Along the way, I naturally got to know a few people. I met a runner from Japan who had recently raced in Australia. He said that he'd never experienced such crowding as here, joking that in Asia, everything seems to focus on quantity 😊. We laughed about the weather differences—back in Poland, it was below freezing with snow, while here in Thailand, it was 30+ degrees with high humidity.
I have to admit, this checkpoint stands out vividly in my memory—perhaps the most clearly of all the checkpoints in this race. People were sprawled everywhere, rubbing their legs with something special (and yes, the packaging had a dragon on it, naturally), eating fragrant soups, and indulging in other treats. I couldn't eat, but I did join in on the leg-rubbing ritual. I was invited to sit down and rest, but as a rule, I avoid doing so, knowing that for my muscles, sitting means the finish line. Out of sheer curiosity, I asked why everyone seemed so content to linger, eating and staying put. One runner showed me the map printed on her bib and said, "Look—next is a 1,000-meter climb. No one's in a hurry 😊, and some probably won't even leave this checkpoint once they realize what's ahead."
I won't deny that her comment piqued my interest. I enjoy climbing; it doesn't faze me at all. In fact, if I could improve at running uphill a bit, I'd love that! But even with my steady, brisk walking pace, I'm perfectly content to pass my weary, muttering companions with a smile. And so, I started the climb in my usual way. But I didn't get far before I stopped for the first time. The ascent was impressive—demanding, soft, and truly steep. For the first time, I adopted a march-pause rhythm: 100 meters, rest, 100 meters, rest. Even so, I happily overtook many of my companions in this shared struggle, making my way steadily up the climb. 😊
The views from there were breathtaking. I captured a few unforgettable photos at this spot that hold a special place in my memory. You're invited to explore my photo gallery. The peak of this effort was truly a stunning place, made even more special as the sun began to set. If I'm not mistaken, I was heading directly toward the Pagoda Noppamethanedon & Pagoda Nopphonphusiri, also known as the King and Queen Pagodas. This beautiful site left such an impression on me that I would gladly return there to witness another sunset. You could simply feel the magic in the air.
Did you know that Doi Inthanon is part of the Himalayas, which stretch through Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar, and end in northern Thailand? Standing here at sunset, at the temple on Thailand's highest peak, over 2,100 meters above sea level, surrounded by lush greenery and towering mountains, one couldn't help but feel truly exceptional.
The Pagodas Pra Mahatat Noppamethanedon and Pra Mahatat Nopphonphusiri are impressive structures located in the picturesque setting of Ban Luang, in Chom Thong District, Chiang Mai Province. They were built to honor the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) and Queen Sirikit. Constructed in the 1980s to celebrate their 60th birthdays, they have become symbols of respect and unity for the entire Thai nation.
These pagodas possess a unique charm that goes far beyond their architectural beauty. Surrounded by enchanting gardens, they form a spiritual and cultural sanctuary, something I can personally attest to. Here, in the highlands, you can truly breathe in the magic of the Himalayan mountains and the natural beauty that, in harmony with the spiritual legacy of the pagodas, creates an almost otherworldly experience.
From this incredible spot, the path led to the fourth and final checkpoint. 🌄✨
CHECKPOINT 4 – A4 - Relic of the Buddha – The First Meal: 4 Crackers.
It was already dusk, and I even started feeling a bit chilly. From the pagoda, we ran onto an asphalt road. I reached the checkpoint and made a bold decision: I took four crackers! A truly daring choice—sink or swim. I was genuinely hungry, slightly dehydrated, and, surprisingly, a little cold. I pulled my jacket out of my backpack and put it on.
These bold decisions—grabbing the four crackers and putting on the jacket—turned out to be excellent ones. They were those rare choices that make you proud of yourself. I kept repeating to myself, "Good decision, good decision!" The crackers went down easily, and I ate them while running downhill along the asphalt road.
I thought to myself, If it's going to be all downhill on this nice asphalt, then with only 9 km to go, it's nothing! Piece of cake! One, two, three, and I'll be at the finish line like a panther! I even hoped to finish within the first time cutoff, before 8:00 p.m.
But, as is often the case in life, the road turned out to be winding and far from straightforward. The organizers had led the course onto a jungle-like path—and fair enough, that's what trail running is about. Suddenly, without knowing how or why, I found myself completely alone in the dark jungle.
The muddy ground had become even muddier. At one point, I came across a burst water pipe, likely leading to a nearby village. It had probably been damaged by us runners, as it was sticking out from the ground, adding an extra challenge to the already messy scene. What mud I got covered in, I washed off—and so it went, all the way to the finish.
Even sliding downhill helped warm me up, so much so that I ended up taking the jacket off again. 😊
FINISH
I crossed the finish line at exactly 7:55 p.m.—just five minutes before the first cutoff. Luckily for those behind me—and there were still plenty—they had an additional hour to complete their struggles.
Happy, covered in mud, still hungry, and sleep-deprived, I finished my third race in the 7 Ultra Continents Club series.
It was absolutely worth it—I highly recommend it!!! 🎉💪
- Race Map: https://www.yourraceplan.com/plan/event/DITUTMB2022/PAGODA50
- Participant Video (1 minute): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VFBW8xqjcE
- Results for All Participants: https://utmb.world/utmb-index/races/25269.doiinthanonbyutmbpagoda50.2022
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